The pain in my backside and a constant complaint amongst veterans who will scream and rant at the TV “who was the military advisor on that”
Last week, I ran a short poll on what grips the most, and Berets were clearly the firm favourite.
I touched on the subject briefly on a previous post titled “Who was the military advisor on that “
So, I thought I would delve deeper into the subject if only to help settle the blood pressures of our armed forces community and help the costume department as a point of reference for the future.
Firstly, the recipe on how to shape a beret.
1. Take the beret and stick it on your head first, to make sure it’s the correct size, ensuring the bow is central to the back of your head, and Pull the access cloth to the right and see how far the beret pulls towards your right ear. It should not cover the right ear.
Ensuring the brim sits straight across your forehead, 2.5 cm above the eyebrows
It’s not always easy for some.
2. Adjust the bow, so the beret is not too loose, but equally not too tight around your head as it’s going to shrink a little after point 4.
3. Fill two bowls, one with warm/hot water and one with cold water
4. Dunk the beret in warm water first, but do not completely submerge. Keep the leather band from getting wet as much as possible by holding the beret by the inner liner when dunked. Once satisfied, the outer is completely wet, take out, and gently wring the beret to get rid of any excessive water.
Don’t overdo it with the wring, or you might stretch the fabric too much.
5. Repeat the same process with the cold water.
6. Fit the damp beret on the head, ensuring you fit it as in point 1. Adjust the bow at the back again to the desired size. Place your cap badge over the left eye just above the leather band. Get a mate to lightly mark where the badge holes need to be made.
7. Take it off, then place small holes with a knife where the marks were made. Most badges come with a backing to help hold the badge up straight.
8. Once the badge and backing are fitted, replace on the head as in point 1.
9. While holding by the cap badge backing, pull the beret cloth to the right and down towards your right ear, ensuring you dont pull down so hard, you end up stretching the cloth over your right ear and shoulder.
At the same time, smoothly shape the left side over and style around the cap badge to your desired style.
10. Once satisfied, keep on your head for a few hours if possible, adjusting every now and again. This will help mould the beret in place. If still not satisfied, repeat steps 4 and 5, but with the badge in place. Don’t pull down at the back if it feels uncomfortable, or you will get this.
11. Once dry and happy, cut away any access bow and tuck away inside the leather band. Some units like to sow a beret backing over the band entrance to ensure no lose ends fall out.
12. The final touch is to gently shave the beret of any fluff.
The style of the beret can depend on several factors, mainly the country and unit represented and time period depicted, so the way in which the beret is shaped and worn varies.
what might be the norm now might not have been the same in the 1940s!
Other nations styles
United States.
Spanish army.
French Tarte Chasseur.
All those steps are easy to follow if you have the time, but now, for the realities of filmmaking.
Costume departments are always up against it with longer working hours than most on set. Cast, Stunts, and Supporting Artists all need to be dressed ready for an 0800 call time. So with 500 people to get ready, you can imagine their workload.
It’s understandable if beret shaping is the last thing on their mind when a director wants to shart shooting at 0800, not 0801.
Whether I identify scenes where berets are worn during the script notes phase or on the shoot. I will always try to flag it up and offer to help the costume department where I can in advance, but you need to offer help, not rush in, and do it without asking. Set etiquette. Very important.
At times, costume suppliers will send the berets, brand new with even the plastic inside a few days before a shoot and will stipulate the berets have to be returned as new or the productions get charged the full price. Not always the case, but I have witnessed it a few times.
If the budget is tight, it causes problems as the costume department will be reluctant to allow the berets to be shaped correctly, worried it could affect the suppliers’ returns policy.
It’s not the costume departments fault, of course, as most would not know how or why there is a need to shape military Berets or how it won’t really affect the return policy.
As long as the productions hired a military costume specialist or advisor, that is!
However, on rare occasions I have had time with the costume department in advance and managed to convince them to allow me to take the berets out for a few days before a shoot and shape them to the respective heads during a boot camp.
On other occasions, we have simply not had the luxury of time, and the berets have turned up on the day of the shoot. The Gentleman is a prime example of all departments working together under limited time constraints.
While on location in Turkey filming The Ministry of Ungentlemanly Warfare a new scene had been written depicting a UN monitoring team from the British Army.
A platoon commander and his platoon Sgt moving between VCPs when the main character gets an unexpected call.
It was the opening scene to the series, and first impressions last, so the main cast member Theo James needed to look the part as much as the production would allow as with the rest of the soldiers on set.
Making something work with only a few days to order gear and get it either flown over or found locally was not an easy task to as much right in the time given, and considering we were already working flat out on the movie in the same location, the team did not do a bad job.
For example, finding the correct weapons and vehicles in turkey as the export times for licenses to fly from the UK can take weeks.
MTP uniforms, boots, webbing, berets, correct rank, and beret badges all needed to be flown over once costume was satisfied with my suggestions.
On the day of the shoot, the berets had just arrived via a flight the following night.
All the berets were brand new and of various sizes.
I received the Supporting Artists and Berets, including the main cast, 20 minutes before the shoot.
All the badges were the same standard UN badge, but there were no officer versions, so there was nothing we could do about that.
There were no badge backings, so I made one out of stiff cardboard and showed a costume assistant how to make the rest up quickly.
Luckily, the costume designer had the hot and cold water to shrink and shape the berets as best I could in the time given.
Each man was lined up as I went through the various sizes to match each head, including the main cast.
Then, I began the shaping process as described above but left out sowing a bow backing and shaving them.
But job done and on the van to set
The hard part is encouraging the actors to not pull the back of the beret down throughout the day. Something I needed to closely monitor and correct after each take.
There was a lot more to do, and make do, with what was supplied on the day, but this blog is about berets.
Some things you just have to get on with and do your best, and there will always be the armchair nit picker desperate to impress on social media. It’s just one of life’s mysteries.
So there you have it. Employ a military advisor or military costume specialist and avoid the most hated debate amongst the veterans community, because as much as some people think it doesn’t matter, it will when a lack of planning and thought makes the headlines for all the wrong reasons, which can ruin all the hard work making drama only remembered for one thing.
PB Military Technical Adviser for Film and TV
